Ka Wai Ola - Office of Hawaiian Affairs, Volume 35, Number 12, 1 December 2018 — He'e Nalu Kākou Into the 2020 Olympics [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

He'e Nalu Kākou Into the 2020 Olympics

he legendary Eddie Aikau was a championship ath-

lete, a big wave surfing pioneer, waterman, and a family man who truly cared for others. Eddie was the first lifeguard on the North Shore and saved 500+ people throughout his career before famously sacrificing his own life attempting to rescue the Hōkūle'a and its crew. Eddie was known to brave the winter swells and waves that often reached 30 plus feet. The best surfers from around the world travel

to 0'ahu's north shore every winter to surf the best waves and compete in the most renowned surf contests on the globe, A premier event in the sport of surfing, often referred to as the "Super Bowl of Surfing," has heen dedicated to Eddie Aikau. "The Eddie Big Wave Invitational" highlights the current lineage of big wave surfers, as well as the ones that eame before. Like Duke Kahanamoku, another Native Hawaiian surfing hero and pioneer, the legend of Eddie Aikau has heeome ieonie and has elevated Native Hawaiian culture and history to global proportions. "The Eddie" holding period is during the season of Makahiki, a season for tribute, harvest, sport, and play. Dependent upon the lunar ealendar the Makahiki season usually begins mid-November and ends in late January/February, whieh bookends the holding period of "The Eddie Big Wave Invitational." Thanks to our ali'i who travelled the world and legends such as Eddie and Duke, surfing has heeome a global sport. This begs the question, "has Hawai'i done enough to stake elaim as the official home of surfing?" He 'e nalu (surfing) was introduced to the world by Native Hawaiians. Many mo'ōlelo of the early 1800s often make reference to ali'i, both men and women surfing. In an 1823 journal excerpt, an explorer by the name of William Ellis journaled

scenes on his tour of Hawai'i and he wrote, "Sometimes the greater

part of the inhabitants of a village go out to this sport [surfing] ... and spend the greater part of the day in the water." That same year (1823) another early observer, writing about Lahaina, Maui, noted that the surfboard "...forms an article of personal property among all the chiefs, male and female, and among many of the eommon people." These journal entries evince the status of surfing as a national Hawaiian sport and the universality of

surfing in Hawaiian life, practiced by men, women, and children, chiefs and commoners. Today, it is time we discuss Hawai'i's role, and the Native Hawaiian community's role in the global sport of surfing. From both cultural and an eeonomie perspectives, it seems that the world of surfing is leaving Hawai'i behind. I believe we are past due for a reclamahon of surfing as the official, cultural sport of Hawai'i. With the 2020 01ympics around the corner, the Hawai'i surfing community needs to step to the forefront as surfing will be included in the 01ympic games. The dream of 01ympic surfing started with Duke Kahanamoku, an 01ympic gold medalist and record setting swimmer. Known as the father of modern surfing, Duke first presented his dream at the 1912 Summer 01ympie Games in Stockholm. There, Duke expressed his wish to the International 01ympic Committee (IOC) to see surfing included in the games. Today, Duke's dream is fulfilled with the inclusion of surfing in the Games of the XXXII 01ympiad - Tokyo 2020. It is evident through our rich culture and history that surfing is a uniquely Hawaiian sport. We need to reclaim this sport across Hawai'i nei and globally to honor our ali'i, and legends such as Eddie Aikau and Duke Kahanamoku. ■

Dan Ahuna VicE Chair, TrustEE, Kaua'i ard Ni'ihau