Ka Wai Ola - Office of Hawaiian Affairs, Volume 5, Number 7, 1 July 1988 — Kalaupapa Holds Distinct Rich Hawaiian Heritage [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Kalaupapa Holds Distinct Rich Hawaiian Heritage

Land of Spectacular Contrast and Beauty

By Linda Kawai'ono Delaney Land Officer Geologists tell us that Kalaupapa Peninsula was formed by the volcanic acts of Kauhako and was originally separate from the rest of Moloka'i. Even the district name — meaning "flat leaf ' — echoes the startling contrast of this level point of land to the deep valleys whieh act as boundary walls and typify the North shore of Moloka'i. This spectacular contrast and beauty of 1300foot cliffs dropping down to the sea has been recognized by National Natural Landmark status. Jutting from the waters off-shore are two small islands. Mokapu — rounded like a honu — is associated with stories of turtles who frequent this area and nest at the far sweep of the bay. The other, reminiscent of a shark's finbreaking the surface, is understandably linked to stories of mano. Without the competition of high-rises, cars and "boom boxes," the spiritual wonder of this area walks at your elbow — felt but just out of sight, nudging enchanted imagination. Distanced by geography and history, Kalaupapa holds a distinctly rich traditional Hawaiian heritage. Best-known for the painful experiences of the leper colony decreed in the 19th century, this area is also home to significant archaeological and cultural treasures. The main village site — estimated to be a thousand years old — is near Siloama Church at Kalawao. Acres of intact enclosure walls, heiau and agricultural terraces used for sweet potato cultivation roll from the base of the pali down to the edge of the oeean. Nearby Waikolu Valley contains eanoe sheds and extensive taro terraces. Along with Wauakeia and Waihanau, these valleys form the eastern-most boundary of the Kalaupapa National Historical Park. The animation of tradition, though, adds a dimension and substance whieh stone alone fails to convey. Outside the village is a birthing stone. According to legend, this naturally-molded rock was stolen from "topside" by the ali'i of Kalawao. With the birth of a royal child imminent, this chief gathered his warriors at the base of the trail. Seeing his preparations for battle, the stronger Moloka'i ali'i assembled their army above. While the army waited on top, the women of Kalawao took another, unguarded trail and successfully carried the stone back.

One of the best-remembered stories is of the "01d Woman's Cave." Invisible from the car path generously called a road, the cave is actually a section of lava tube where an old ceiling collapse has created an entrance. Sheltered from the unrelenting wind above, the floor is a sudden and lush burst of velvet-green ferns. As recalled by Richard Marks, an old Hawaiian eouple used to eome and stay at the cave while they gathered salt. Growing fearful that the cave would

be taken by others if they left, the eouple decided to live at Kalaupapa. With time, the old man died. The old woman continued to live in the cave— using the mauka portion as a sheltered sleeping plaee, and the longer makai area as a working space. This lower area "pukas out" of the cliffside about 200 feet above a reef. Entering, sparks of light glint off the walls — small prisms of salt crystals reflecting the sun. Also popular and widely-shared at Kalaupapa are "ghost stories." Evidence of the strength of the spirit world as a continuing force, such stories are not always rooted in the distant past. One example is of the sailor who fell to his death while helping to build the lighthouse. Unable to immediately transport his body back to Honolulu, he was taken to a room in the nearby stone house. Ever since, any woman who sleeps in the same room has experienced his presence. The intensity and number of patients who have died at Kalaupapa also continues to be felt. While touring the relatively new treatment faciljty at Kalaupapa, the "make room" was pointed out. Closest to the nurse's station, this room is reserved for the most seriously ill. The "eall box" above the bed has been removed — for even when no one was in the room, urgent buzzings for help were still heard at the station desk.

Here is the birthing stone as described in story.

Looking out from inside the "Old Woman's Cave" one sees another puka and the Pacific Oeean beyond.

Mokapu island beyond trees is associated with stories of turties.

Pictured here is a ko'a or fishing shrine.

Some of the village walls are seen here at left.