Ka Wai Ola - Office of Hawaiian Affairs, Volume 6, Number 6, 1 June 1989 — Luakini Heiau Fit For A King [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Luakini Heiau Fit For A King

Ulupo— Recent Survey Reveals New Findings,

By Carol Kawaehi Archaeologist, State Parks/Historic Sites Introduction Ulupo Heiau, tocated in Kailua, Ko'olaupoko, O'ahu, is a large terraced pIatform whose name translates literally as "night inspiration" (Plaee Names of Hawaii, 1976: page 215). It is one of three heiau that overlook Kawainui marsh; the others are Pahukini and Holomakani. Pahukini, a luakini-type heiau, is located on a natural promontory west of the marsh. Holomakani, described as "just beneath Pahukini" (McAllister 1933: page 182), (or southwest of the marsh), may have been an agricultural-type heiau. In relation to the other two, Ulupo is on the southeast and across from Holomakani on the other side of the marsh. According to studies done of the area, Kawainui was an open bay appi(jximatel'y 4,000 to 6,000 years ago (Drigot & Seto 1982:9-10). As sand built up on a sand bar at the mouth of the bay it changed Kawainui into a lagoon whieh the Hawaiians then modified into a fishpond. Stream flow from Maunawili valley deposited increasing amounts of sediment anel soil on the shores of the lagoon. This natural deposition of soil and sediment was probably aided by diversion and stream control by Hawaiians. Radio-carbon dates from the mauka (inland) edge of the marsh show that this area was converted into a rich and productive taro-growing area approximately 1500 years ago. Land ownership During the Great Mahele, the parcel containing Ulupo heiau was awarded to Ukikolo (Land Commission Award 2536, November 9, 1854) who later bought the land and received Royal Patent 2136 (Kamehameha IV to Ukikolo July 17, 1855). Several transactions later, in 1932, the property was acquired by the Territory of Hawai'i. On October 12, 1954, by Executive Order no. 1654, Ulupo Heiau was set aside as land for "Public Purposes" and in 1958 eame ". . . under the supervision of the Board of Commissioners of Agriculture and Forestry, Commission of Historieal Sites and the Bishop Museum." Previous Archaeological Work In 1933, archaeologist J. Gilbert McAllister, working for the Bishop Museum, published a survey done in 1930 of heiau around O'ahu. He defined Ulupo as a luakini heiau, "the sacrificial, or political and religious type" based on ". . . the great amount of labor involved . . . The sacrificial heiau is the highest type of heiau. . . It could only be built by a king, and the construction was a long and arduous process, according to Malo [1903:60]. It was primarily a war temple" (McAllister 1933:10). As a luakini heiau, the structures built atop the stone platform may have included: the prayer house or house of supreme power (hale mana or mua), the drum house (hale pahu), the house in whieh a certain ceremony, aha, was performed (hale waiea), and the oven house (hale umu). (John Papa I'i 1959:35). Even by 1930, McAllister noted: "The O'ahu heiaus have been so completely mutilated during the last hundred years that little remains of their original characteristics." McAllister's view of Ulupo in 1930 was as follows (1933:186): Its earlier importance and size is indicated by the large open terrace . . . The paving is now very rough, undoubtedly having been disturbed by relic hunters. The stones used average about 1.5 feet in size. The sides of the terrace are not evenly faced, but are roughly piled at about a45degree angle . . . This huge mass of stones completely dominates the surrounding taro patches and it is little wonder that the construction of the temple is attributed to the menehunes . . . [the menehune pathway*] . . . is most clearly visible on the side of the heiau, but at the top is confused with the disturbed paving . . . the small inclosures and mounds of stone on the edge of the high terrace . . . The south half of the structure is completely covered with hau . . . There is evidence of a small in-

closure, but the southem walls and extent of the heiau were obliterated in the construction of a cattle pen . . . National Register of Historic Places In May 1971, the Ulupo site was submitted to the Hawai'i Historic Places Review Board and placed on the Hawai'i Register of Historic Places on June 21, 1971. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places on November 9, 1972. Kawainui marsh, whieh is adjacent to Ulupo heiau, was determined eligible for the National Register of Historic Places in 1979, but has not yet been nominated for placement on the register. Recent Archaeological Work Archaeological surveys in the 1970s and 1980s around the marsh have revealed agricultural terraces and mounds, habitation sites, retaining walls, and enclosures in the areas surrounding Ulupo heiau and Kawainui marsh. Excavations in the marsh itself have revealed taro root stains and taro pollen, indicating early lo'i (taro ponds and fields). Most recently, archaeologists from the Historic Sites Section of State Parks surveyed and mapped Ulupo heiau in 1988 (Figure 2). This was the first mapping of the site since McAllister's map of 1930 (Figure 1). The clearing and mapping revealed

some features not previously noted, specifically three "niches" in the western slope, the side that overlooks Kawainui Marsh. Whether these were overlooked by McAllister, hidden by vegetation in 1930, or constructed between 1930 and 1988isnot known. It has been suggested that these might have been where the idols stood. The three "niches" are of different sizes in the approximate center of the slope. The middle niehe was the longest, including four levels of "facings," (the smooth outer surface of a fitted rock wall). The niehe to the west extended to the top of the heiau same as the middle one, was a little wider, and ended at the second level of facing. The niehe

to the east started at the second level of facing and extended down to the fourth facing and was alittle more narrow than the others. The differences may be a result of fall-in or slumping. For the most part, though, the sides of the niches were faced and quite obvious. Remnants of terrace facings, whieh appear to correspond with the niches, are found on the northwest, northeast, and southeast sides of the heiau (Fig. 2). These remnant terrace facings were the basis for the artist's reconstruction. (Figure 3) It has been suggested that some of these terrace facings were construction features to help retain the slope. Known changes to Ulupo in the past 60 years inc!ude: construction by the division ofstateparksof a walkway across the top of the heiau to connect with the so-called "menehune pathway" whieh eame up the northwest corner of the heiau; and paving and clearing away rubble and rock in the section around the two openings of the spring below the heiau. In addition, a house was constructed on the southwest side probably after 1930. Of all the features whieh McAllister described, most have been modified, are totally missing or simply are no longer discernable as McAllister described and drew them. In the northeastern section, the mounds recorded by McAllister are now depressions where rocks have been removed and/or "bottle hunters" have been digging. It is interesting to note that "relic hunters" as McAllister described them then, are still vandalizing the site. Community Involvement Early in 1951, the Kailua Outdoor Circle received permission from the Board of Agriculture and Forestry "to clear the brush [hau, haole koa and lantana] from the heiau proper ..." Dr. Kenneth Emory, Bishop Museum anthropologist, advised restoring the original pavement, a few of the inner walls, and the erection of a tower for a dramatic effect. The records do not indicate that this restoration work was conducted. An April 1982 Windward Sun Press article shows a photo of volunteers and Sierra Club members taking down a banyan tree "interferring with a natural spring." This same banyan tree was again cut down in December 1988 by State Parks to protect the heiau structure and provide a view to Kawainui Marsh. The Curator Program A curator program has been initiated by the State Park's Historic Sites Section. The aim of the program is to: 1. Better maintain significant historic sites and protect them from vandalism, natural factors, and unintentional human actions that damage sites. 2. Provide the State's citizens greater access to view and understand the importance of thesesites and the Hawaii's history. The agreement between the State of Hawai'i, Dept. of Land and Natural Resources and the Kailua Hawaiian Civic Club to allow the latter to

Figure 3. Perspective drawing of Ulupo Heiau as it might have looked while in use in ancient times.

Figure 1. J.G. McAllister's drawing of Ulupo in 1930, from Archaeology of Oahu. 1933, page 1987.