Ka Wai Ola - Office of Hawaiian Affairs, Volume 8, Number 12, 1 December 1991 — Waipiʻo Valley heritage in peril [ARTICLE]

Waipiʻo Valley heritage in peril

by Lynn Lee Waipi'o is a valley of surprises. Known for its beauty, abundance of water and remote Hawaiian lifestyle, its current problems cover a surprising range of concerns including a bone-dry Hi'ilawe falls, a voIatile community disagreement over horse tours, and resort development topside of the valley. As with most of Hawai'i, the hopscotch pattern of resort and golf course development has caught up with Waipi'o. The valley's future in light of the development is uncertain. On Oct. 18, the Hawai'i County Planning Commission approved a plan allowing a resort to be built on the cliffs above Waipi'o Valley. The plans eall for a hotel, three golf courses, a new road between Kukuihaele to Waimea and a new look-out to Waipi'o Valley. While all of these plans are in progress on the cliff tops above, Waipi'o below struggles to preserve its identity as a Hawaiian community. Unfortunately, mueh of the unique characteristics of Waipi'o are disappearing. Hi'ilawe falls and her twin sister are a prime example. Hi'ilawe, the source of music and legend was completely dry on a recent weekend in October. Mueh of the water has been diverted for sugar eane cultivation. Ironically, the fields whieh were irrigated by water from the falls have been taken out of production. The water now rushes in man-made flumes from the falls to the oeean, not onee touching either taro or sugar eane. Waipi'o valley is well known for its taro production. Taro onee helped sustain a populahon of 5,000 to 10,000 Native Hawaiians in the valley. Now the valley supports few taro growers. Estimates indicate only 30-35 lo'i (taro fields) still function there. The reasons are many. Growing taro is hard work requiring hand cultivation and long hours of standing in cold rushing water. The effort is made more difficult by the valley's isolation from markets. But equally important is the changing character of the valley. It is no longer home to a predominately

Native Hawaiian community. The descendants of the early taro growers have left and in their plaee is a group of relatively young Caucasian adults seeking isolation and privacy. That isolation and privacy has recently been marred by a controversy over horse tours along the King's trail. Natural springs are eommon in the valley and the ground is very wet, even in the dry season. Horses roam freely throughout the valley and horse manure is everywhere. However, thisis not the problem that most upsets valley residents. Horse back tours through the valley have increased heavily in recent years. In some places the traditional trail crosses private property. The trail has become rutted and wom by the horses and private property owners have become concerned about damage to their property. Although the trail is in the conservation district, the Department of Land and Natural Resources has allowed tour operators to operate without the usually required conditional use permit. One private property owner recently placed a fence across the trail where it entered their property. That night the home on the property went up in flames. In spite of, or perhaps because of the valley's remoteness, the black sand beach attracts crowds of people on niee days. In continuous procession that resembles ants at a pienie, tour operators and four-wheel drivers take the precarious trip up and down the single lane road leading to the valley. Surfers, boogieboarders, waders, and sun worshippers crowd both the beach and the resembling a 1960s beach party. The last surprise is that the deep beauty and sense of peaee that is the heart of this valley has not yet disintegrated. If you ignore the horses, the hippies and the commercial hype and go deep into the valley you will still find taro growers in well tended lo'i, water rushing down mountain streams and Hawaiian hosts who remind you of the valley's impressive heritage.