Ka Wai Ola - Office of Hawaiian Affairs, Volume 10, Number 7, 1 July 1993 — Sam Choy: "Food has been my life." [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Sam Choy: "Food has been my life."

Hawaiian chef brings together East, West, anel Hawai'i to form a tasty menu anel successful career

bv Patrick Johnston

It's 6:30 on a Saturday moming. Tucked off a backstreet in an industrial area of Kona, miles from the nearest hotel or residential area and barely noticeable even on the road where it sits,

Sam Choy's Restaurant is running at full capacity. Sam must be doing something right. Ever since Choy decided to go into the cooking business he has done plenty of things right. Bom

in the small fishing village of Lā'ie, he has worked as an executive chef at some of Hawai'i*s fmest hotels, has written a eookbook highlighting Hawaiian euisine and has received nearly a

dozen loeal and statewlde cooking awards. He

teaches Hawaiian cuisine at the University of Hawai'i School of

Travel Industry Management and is involved in numerous eommunity and professional activities. Since 1991 he's also been operating two restaurants in the Kailua area and, judging by the crowds he brings in every day - not to mention the great tasting eats he serves up - appears to be doing a pretty good job of it. "I love cooking," he says. "Food has been my life." Choy was born to a Chinese father and a Hawaiian/German mother, a "ehop suey" mix that put him in a good position to develop a cross-cuItural cuisine that combines the East and West

with the native foods of the islands. Sam explains, "When someone asks me 'What is Hawai'i regional cuisine?' I tell them it's where East meets West in Hawai'i." He serves a steamed 'ōpakapaka that includes shiitake mushrooms and butter shoyu and is seasoned with ginger, cilantro, salt and pepper. His Iaulau version uses all the same ingredients wrapped in fresh ti leaves. Says Sam, 'To prepare laulau style is to prepare it in the old Hawaiian way. This is truly a dish where east meets west in Hawai'i." Choy's love of food started with his family. When he was

young he spent weekends helping his father prepare for big Lā'ie lū'au that brought in close to 1,000 people and served Hawaiian delicacies like kālua pig, squid lū'au, lomi lomi salmon and homemade haupia. He enjoyed the lū'au because they allowed people to eat plenty of delicious food, enjoy some Hawaiian entertainment, and forget their problems for a while. After finishing high school Choy enrolled in Kapi'olani Community College's A.A. Food Service Management program where he graduated in 1972. Like his lū'au, Choy's restau-

rants cater to [ the family. | " H o m e - cooked meals are my personal favorite. If everyone thought of their favorite dishes, most would have to agree that their favorite foods are the ones Mom or Dad | would make | for them at

home. ... They bring happy memories back to us when we eat them." Choy believes that eating with the family allows for a ehanee not only to eat good food but also for family members to be with eaeh other. "It makes me feel good when I see a family eome in to my restaurant, not only to enjoy my food, but more importantly, eaeh other's company and fellowship." Choy's two restaurants are in the Kailua area. Sam Choy's Diner is at the Frame Ten Center in Kailua and Sam Choy's Restaurant and Catering is on Kauhola Street just outside the city.

Choy was born to a Chinese father anei a Hawaiian/German mother, a "ehop suey" mix that put him in a good position to develop a cross-cul-tural cuisine that combines the East and West with the native foods of the islands.

Sam Choy

Sam Choy's Restaurant